Discovering São Miguel, Azores in Portugal

The Volcanic Jewel of the Azores

Often referred to as Ilha Verde (the Green Island), São Miguel is the largest and most ecologically diverse island in the Azorean archipelago. Located in the heart of the Atlantic Ocean, this destination is defined by its raw, untamed beauty—a place where dramatic volcanic craters meet emerald forests and the powerful surges of the sea. This guide explores the essential highlights of the island’s landscape, culture, and history, with a special focus on the geothermal wonders that define its spirit.

Navigating the Atlantic Climate

The atmospheric conditions on São Miguel are famously unpredictable, often delivering what locals call “four seasons in a single day.” Because the island’s topography is so varied, it is common for a coastal town to be bathed in sunshine while the inland peaks are shrouded in thick mist.

To manage these shifting conditions, travelers frequently rely on the Spot Azores platform. This service provides live webcam feeds from major viewpoints and landmarks across the island, allowing you to check visibility at high-altitude spots like Lagoa do Fogo before you set out. Link to Spot Azores Webcams

Ponta Delgada: The Historic Gateway

As the island’s primary urban center, Ponta Delgada offers a sophisticated blend of old-world charm and contemporary life. The city’s architecture is defined by its striking “black and white” aesthetic—whitewashed walls framed by dark, local volcanic basalt.

Urban Highlights

The City Gates (Portas da Cidade): These 18th-century arches stand as the symbolic entrance to the city and are a centerpiece of the historic waterfront.
Jardim António Borges: A botanical oasis in the city center, this garden features exotic trees, winding stone paths, and hidden grottos, creating a mini-jungle atmosphere.
Mercado da Graça: This bustling local market is the best place to find regional produce, including the island’s famous pineapples (grown in nearby greenhouses) and artisanal Azorean cheeses.

Local Gastronomy

The capital’s food scene emphasizes fresh, local ingredients. Be sure to try lapas (limpets) served sizzling with garlic and butter, or explore modern fusion options that combine traditional Azorean seafood with international influences.

Sete Cidades: Legend and Landscape

Located on the western tip of the island, Sete Cidades is perhaps the most iconic image of the Azores. The village sits inside a massive volcanic caldera containing two distinct bodies of water: Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Verde.

Miradouro da Grota do Inferno: This viewpoint provides a sweeping, high-angle perspective of the lakes and the surrounding crater ridges. It is widely considered one of the most beautiful vistas in Europe.
The Village: Deep within the crater, the quiet village of Sete Cidades features the neo-Gothic Church of Saint Nicholas and offers access to the lakeshores, where visitors can rent kayaks to explore the water.

[IA breathtaking high-angle view from Miradouro da Grota do Inferno, showing the blue and green lakes nestled within the lush volcanic crater.]

Furnas: The Geothermal Heart of the Azores

While the entire island is volcanic, Furnas is where you can truly feel the earth’s pulse. Located in the eastern-central part of São Miguel, this valley is a dormant volcanic crater where the air is thick with steam and the faint, earthy scent of sulfur. It is a place where the geological power of the Atlantic is put to practical, everyday use.

The Ritual of Cozido das Furnas

The most famous tradition here is Cozido das Furnas, a hearty meat and vegetable stew cooked entirely by the heat of the earth. Unlike any other culinary experience, this dish involves no electricity or fire.

The Process: Every morning, local chefs and families pack large stainless steel or cast-iron pots with layers of beef, pork, chicken, and local sausages like morcela (blood sausage) and chouriço. These are topped with generous portions of cabbage, kale, potatoes, carrots, and yams.
The Burial: The pots are lowered into deep, cylindrical holes in the geothermal soil at the Fumarolas Lagoa das Furnas. They are covered with wooden lids and mounds of dirt to trap the heat.
The Midday Retrieval: Between 11:30 AM and 12:30 PM, visitors can gather at the lakeside to watch the “extraction.” Men use long hooks to pull the steaming pots from the ground—a ritual that has remained largely unchanged for generations.
The Flavor: Because the stew is slow-cooked for roughly 6 hours, the meats become incredibly tender, and the vegetables absorb a subtle, mineral richness from the volcanic steam that is impossible to replicate in a standard kitchen.

Culinary Specialties and Thermal Wonders

Beyond the stew, Furnas offers other unique treats. You can find “Volcano Corn” (corn on the cob boiled in the hot springs) and the famous Bolo Lêvedo—a slightly sweet, toasted muffin-style bread that is a staple of the region.

After a heavy lunch, the tradition is to soak in the valley’s therapeutic waters:

Parque Terra Nostra: This 200-year-old botanical masterpiece features a massive thermal lake. The water is a striking orange color due to its high iron content and is maintained at a soothing 35–40°C.
Poça da Dona Beija: For a more intimate experience, this outdoor spa features five different pools set against a backdrop of jungle ferns and running streams. It is particularly magical at night under the stars.

steaming fumaroles at Lagoa das Furnas, with local workers retrieving large metal pots from the geothermal holes

Vila Franca do Campo and the South Coast

Once the capital of São Miguel, Vila Franca do Campo is steeped in history and serves as a gateway to one of the island’s most unique natural monuments.

The Islet (Ilhéu de Vila Franca do Campo): Often called the “Princess Ring,” this perfectly circular volcanic crater is located just offshore. During the summer months, it becomes a natural swimming lagoon with crystal-clear turquoise water.
Ermida da Senhora da Paz: Perched on a high hill overlooking the town, this chapel is famous for its elaborate staircase. It offers one of the best viewpoints for seeing the coastline and the islet from above.

Adventure and Wilderness

For those looking to explore the island’s interior, São Miguel offers trails that lead to some of its most secluded treasures.

Lagoa do Fogo: This “Lake of Fire” is the highest crater lake on the island. It remains largely untouched by development, offering a wild landscape of white pumice beaches and deep blue water.
Ponta da Ferraria: On the western coast, geothermal springs flow directly into the ocean. At low tide, the seawater is naturally heated by volcanic vents, allowing for a warm swim in a rugged Atlantic cove.
The North Coast: Visit the Chá Gorreana tea plantation, the oldest in Europe, to see rolling green hills of tea bushes overlooking the ocean, or head to Ribeira Grande for world-class surfing on black sand beaches.

Closing Thoughts

São Miguel is a place that invites you to slow down. From the sulfurous steam of Furnas to the quiet stillness of the high crater lakes, the island offers a rare opportunity to witness the raw power of nature. Whether you are tasting a meal cooked by a volcano or watching the sunset over the Atlantic, the “Green Island” leaves a lasting impression of peace and wonder.

Would you like me to recommend specific restaurants in Furnas where you can book a traditional Cozido lunch?

Where to Eat in Furnas recommended by our readers:

Restaurant	Vibe	Notable Feature
Tony’s Restaurant	Highly Popular	Located next to the Igreja da Nossa Senhora de Alegria; legendary for Cozido.
Caldeiras e Vulcões	Rustic/Authentic	Famous for serving dishes cooked directly in the hot ground.
Terra Nostra Garden	Fine Dining	Offers a sophisticated Cozido experience inside a botanical park.
Banhos Férreos	Traditional	A reputable spot for classic volcanic stews.
A Quinta	Nightlife/Wine Bar	Great for evening vibes, Portuguese wines, and tapas.

Pro Tip: If you plan on eating Cozido, skip breakfast and lunch—it’s an “endurance challenge” of meat and potatoes. Also, reservations are essential.

The Geothermal Wonders of Furnas

Situated in the eastern-central region, Furnas is the island’s geothermal epicenter. The area sits within a dormant volcanic crater and is characterized by a high concentration of mineral springs and active steam vents.

• Volcanic Cooking: A signature of this region is Cozido das Furnas, a traditional stew of meat and vegetables. The ingredients are placed in pots and buried in the geothermally heated soil, where they cook for approximately six hours. The natural sulfur in the ground imparts a distinct flavor profile that is considered impossible to replicate through modern means.

• Healing Waters: The town is famous for its thermal baths. Parque Terra Nostra is a 200-year-old botanical masterpiece featuring a large, iron-rich pool with a natural orange tint. Another popular site is Poça da Dona Beija, where multiple outdoor pools of varying temperatures are nestled within a rainforest setting