In the narrow, winding alleys of Lisbon, beneath the feet of every local and traveler, lies a story of exotic kings, ancient beasts, and an urban legend that claims to explain why the city’s sidewalks are paved with stone. It is a tale that connects the limestone streets to a rhinoceros that once captivated the European world during the height of the Golden Age of Discoveries when Portugal controlled the only sea routes to India and Byond.
A Gift from the Edge of the World
The King’s Mud Problem: An Urban Legend
At the dawn of the 16th century, Portugal was the epicenter of global exploration. Under King Manuel I, Portuguese navigators were pushing the boundaries of the known world, rounding the Cape of Good Hope and reaching the shores of India and Africa.
In 1515, a spectacular gift arrived at the Lisbon docks: a live Indian rhinoceros named Ganda. Sent from the Sultan of Cambay to the Portuguese governor of India, and then forwarded to King Manuel, Ganda was the first rhinoceros to set foot on European soil since the time of the Roman Empire. This massive “armored” beast was more than an animal; it was a living symbol of Portugal’s dominion over the distant seas.
Lisbon in the 1500s was a city of immense wealth but poor infrastructure. The streets were notoriously dirty, turning into muddy rivers during the rainy season. Legend has it that King Manuel I wanted to parade Ganda through the city to celebrate his birthday and impress his subjects.
The myth suggests that the King, fearing his magnificent beast would be tarnished by the filth of the capital, ordered the streets along the procession route to be paved with stones. He wanted Ganda to walk on a clean surface befitting its status. While historians note that royal decrees for paving existed as early as 1498, the “Rhino Pavement” story persists as a favorite explanation for why Lisbon began its transition from mud to stone. It is said that the white limestone was chosen specifically to highlight the cleanliness and grandeur of the royal path.
Lisbon in the 1500s was a city of immense wealth but poor infrastructure. The streets were notoriously dirty, turning into muddy rivers during the rainy season. Legend has it that King Manuel I wanted to parade Ganda through the city to celebrate his birthday and impress his subjects.
The myth suggests that the King, fearing his magnificent beast would be tarnished by the filth of the capital, ordered the streets along the procession route to be paved with stones. He wanted Ganda to walk on a clean surface befitting its status. While historians note that royal decrees for paving existed as early as 1498, the “Rhino Pavement” story persists as a favorite explanation for why Lisbon began its transition from mud to stone. It is said that the white limestone was chosen specifically to highlight the cleanliness and grandeur of the royal path.
The Art of the Calceteiros
To build these streets, a unique class of artisans emerged: the calceteiros. These workers were responsible for creating the Calçada Portuguesa, the iconic Portuguese pavement that has become the city’s signature.
The work of the calceteiros is a grueling, rhythmic labor of love. These men spend their days hunched over the ground, wielding small, specialized hammers to chip away at raw limestone and basalt. Each stone is hand-cut and meticulously placed to form a tight, mortarless mosaic. The workmanship requires a deep understanding of geometry and geology; the stones must be wedged so perfectly that they support the weight of thousands of footsteps and carriages without shifting.
This limestone, known as calcário, is the heart of the craft. Its light, cream-colored surface reflects the famous Lisbon sun, giving the city its legendary glow. For the calceteiros, the pavement is not just a road—it is a canvas. They transform simple street corners into intricate works of art, depicting waves, stars, ships, and historical emblems that tell the story of a maritime nation.
From Lisbon to Rome: A Tragic Voyage
Ganda’s story was not meant to end in Lisbon. King Manuel, ever the strategist, decided to send the rhinoceros to Rome as a gift for Pope Leo X. He hoped this extraordinary gesture would secure the Pope’s favor for Portugal’s colonial expansions.
However, the voyage turned tragic. Off the coast of Italy, the ship carrying Ganda was caught in a violent storm and wrecked. Chained to the deck for safety, the rhinoceros was unable to swim and drowned. Though the animal never reached the Vatican alive, its image lived on through sketches and woodcuts, most notably the famous print by Albrecht Dürer.
Immortalized in the Belém Tower
Though the rhino was lost at sea, it was immortalized in the very architecture of Lisbon. At the Torre de Belém (Belém Tower), built to guard the harbor and celebrate the discoveries, the architects carved Ganda’s likeness into the stone.
If you look closely at the base of one of the watchtowers, you will see a rhinoceros gargoyle staring out across the Tagus River. It is a permanent tribute to the beast that, according to legend, gave Lisbon its paved streets and connected the spirit of Africa and Asia to the soul of Portugal.
Sources and Further Reading:
- Google Arts & Culture: The Story of the Lisbon Rhinoceros – Details on Genda’s arrival and the Belém Tower carving.
- Portuguese Historical Museum: The History of Calçada – Examining the Royal Letters of 1498 and the “Rhino Procession” legend.
- National Geographic: The Artisans of the Portuguese Pavement – A look at the life and craft of the modern-day calceteiro.
